After 30 years of running the Lewis Christmas Light Show, we have learned most of our electrical safety lessons the hard way — a tripped breaker at 6 PM on opening night, a controller that filled with water during a November rainstorm, extension cords that got warm enough to worry about. None of it was catastrophic, but all of it was avoidable.
Whether you are putting up a modest display at your own home or planning something more ambitious, here is what we have learned about keeping outdoor Christmas lights safe.
🔌 Start With the Right Lights
Not all Christmas lights are rated for outdoor use. Before anything goes outside, check the label:
- Look for UL Listed — Underwriters Laboratories (UL) listing means the product has been tested to safety standards. Look for a UL label on the box and on the light string itself.
- Indoor vs. outdoor rating — Outdoor-rated lights have weatherproof sockets and insulation designed to handle moisture. Indoor lights used outside can become shock and fire hazards when wet.
- LED vs. incandescent — LED lights run significantly cooler and use a fraction of the power. For a large display, this matters — fewer lights per circuit means fewer tripped breakers and lower fire risk.
⚡ Extension Cords: The Most Overlooked Hazard
The majority of holiday electrical fires involve extension cords. Here is what to watch for:
- Use outdoor-rated cords only — Indoor extension cords have thinner insulation not designed for moisture or UV exposure. Look for cords marked "W" (weather-resistant) or "WA" (weather-resistant, all-purpose).
- Match the gauge to the load — The heavier the load, the lower the gauge number you need. For runs over 25 feet with multiple light strings, use 14-gauge or heavier. Undersized cords overheat.
- Never daisy-chain more than three extension cords — Each connection is a potential failure point and voltage drops over long runs.
- Keep connections off the ground — Plug connections sitting in puddles or snow are a shock hazard. Use cord clips or a drip loop (the cord should sag below the connection before rising to the outlet).
- Never run cords under rugs, doors, or through walls — This damages insulation and prevents heat from dissipating.
🔌 GFCI Outlets Are Not Optional
A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) outlet cuts power within milliseconds if it detects a current imbalance — the kind caused by water intrusion or a damaged cord making contact with something it should not. For outdoor electrical use, GFCI protection is required by the National Electrical Code and is the single most important safety device in a holiday display.
- All outdoor outlets should already be GFCI-protected. If yours are not, have an electrician install them before running a display.
- Test your GFCI outlets before the season with the Test/Reset buttons. If the outlet does not trip when you press Test, it may be faulty.
- If you are using a power strip outdoors, make sure it is plugged into a GFCI outlet upstream — the strip itself does not provide ground fault protection.
🏘️ Know Your Circuit Capacity
A standard household circuit is 15 or 20 amps at 120 volts. Overloading a circuit trips the breaker — which is annoying — or in older homes without proper protection, can cause a wire to overheat inside a wall — which is dangerous.
- Calculate your load before plugging in. Add up the wattage of everything on one circuit. A 15-amp circuit can safely handle about 1,440 watts (80% of 1,800W maximum). A 20-amp circuit can handle about 1,920 watts.
- Spread your display across multiple circuits. Our 12 controllers each run on their own 30-amp dedicated circuit. For a home display, try to use outlets on at least two or three different circuits rather than stacking everything on one outdoor outlet.
- If a breaker trips repeatedly, do not just reset it. A breaker that keeps tripping is telling you something is wrong — either the circuit is overloaded or there is a wiring issue. Have it checked.
🌞️ Inspect Before Every Season
Light strings and cords degrade over time, especially with outdoor exposure. Before anything goes up each year, we do a full inspection:
✅ Pre-season safety checklist
- Check every light string for cracked, frayed, or exposed wiring
- Test each string before mounting — a dead string is easier to replace on the ground than on the roof
- Inspect all extension cord insulation for cracks, cuts, or rodent damage
- Check all plug connections for bent prongs, discoloration, or burn marks
- Verify all outdoor outlets are GFCI-protected and test each one
- Make sure no cords run over sharp edges, through doors, or under mulch
- Check that all outdoor connections have drip loops or are elevated
- Confirm your display load does not exceed 80% of circuit capacity
🏭 Fire Safety Basics
- Turn lights off when you go to bed or leave the house. Most display fires happen when no one is home to catch them early. A timer or smart plug can handle this automatically.
- Do not leave lights running in high wind or during heavy rain if you are not home to monitor them.
- Keep a fire extinguisher accessible during the season, especially if your display is near the house.
- Real trees dry out fast. If you have a live tree near the display, check the water daily. A dry tree can go up in seconds.
- Keep electrical connections away from flammable decorations — dried leaves, paper decorations, or synthetic fabrics near a warm connection are a risk.
👥 For Visitors to Our Display
If you are visiting the Lewis Christmas Light Show this season, please note that the display is on private property and electrical components are not accessible to visitors. Shenandoah Road can become congested on peak nights — please stay in your vehicle, keep windows closed near the FM transmitter area, and do not touch any equipment along the house or yard perimeter.
We have been running this show safely since 1996 and take every precaution listed above (and then some) before opening night. We hope these tips help you run your own display just as safely. See you this November 27th!